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Destination Jamestown

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Destination Jamestown
A Pair of Day Trips from Jamestown
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When sailors in the Northeast hear the call, “Go east, young man,” their first thoughts are usually of Newport or Nantucket. But let me propose an alternative: Jamestown, Rhode Island. Jamestown is the only town on the island of Conanicut, which got its name from Canonicus, a Narragansett Sachem who in 1637 cut a deal with the English, allowing them to graze sheep on the island. Settled in 1686, Jamestown is overlooked by many due to her proximity to Newport, the glitzy, noisy, popular city across the bay.

Jamestown is a jewel, however, not much changed since the time of the Narragansetts, and most residents (the town’s year round population is about 6,000) will tell you that they like it that way. Some call her Newport’s quiet sister and in many ways that’s an apt description, but the old girl has her own unique style and anyone who has visited invariably agrees she can stand on her own!

Jamestown is a quiet but also friendly, historic, rustic and elegant island. She boasts two revolutionary war forts (Fort Wetherill and Fort Getty) that were used for defense against the British, as well as several other points of interest, hotels, B&Bs, marinas, boatyards, bars and restaurants (see p.16). The town is abuzz with fun activities almost every weekend during the summer (see p.17). Winters are wet, gray and windy with the small year-round population going really quiet. The boatyards are busy; the bars not so much.

The approach to Jamestown is simple enough. Upon passing the correct side of Brenton Reef, you will see Beavertail Light on the southern tip of Conanicut. Keeping Beavertail to port, pass between it and the light at Castle Hill on the Newport side. Proceed up the channel, pass the house on the rocks make a left and you’re there. Jamestown Boat Yard is just beyond the lighted Green #11. Just north of Jamestown Boatyard you’ll find Clark Boatyard & Marine Works. Proceed another one-half mile north and you’ll pick up the entrance to Conanicut Marina. You can reach the Jamestown Harbormaster at 401-423-7249.

The center of town is Narragansett Avenue, which splits the island in half. At the western shore is Dutch Harbor Marina, and on the eastern shore is Conanicut Marina, which has 100 slips and 162 moorings. Contact them on VHF channel 71 or call May at 401- 423-7157. Conanicut Marina has numerous facilities, including showers, heads, marine store and immediate access to Jamestown’s many restaurants, sandwich shops and bars. The launch runs until 2200hrs if you prefer a mooring. Summer nights are usually calm, as the prevailing wind is out of the south-southwest and the harbor provides good shelter.

Dutch Harbor and Jamestown Boat Yard also have moorings and launch service. Both yards are a short walk from town, which is good for the legs as well as sobriety! The walk will introduce you to Jamestown’s eclectic neighborhoods. Mansions and shacks share the same block, making for some interesting conversation as to what people were thinking back in the day. Dutch Harbor, on the west side of the island, is the place you want to be if the weatherman calls for anything out of the east. They have ice, showers, and free pumpout service. They monitor VHF channel 69, or you can call 401-423-0630 and speak to Allison, who is more than helpful.

Jamestown Boat Yard (JBY) is the first mooring field on the eastern shore which you’ll see as you enter Narragansett Bay’s East Passage just opposite Fort Adams in Newport (on your right as you come up the channel). Jamestown Boat Yard’s mooring field is tucked behind the unique house on the rocks named “Clingstone.” This structure, which is more than 100 years old, is named after the peach…not because it is clinging to the rocks.

Don’t let the outcropping of rocks (locals call them “dumplings”) scare you - there is enough water surrounding them that your bow will hit before your keel. You can call Adeline on VHF channel 72 or (401) 423-0600 for a mooring reservation, which is highly recommended. The launch runs till 1900hrs Monday through Thursday and 2100hrs Friday through Sunday. They have nice outdoor showers and a great beach. Clark Boatyard & Marine Works, owned and operated by the Clark family since 1934, is nestled behind the historic Round House and adjacent to the racquet Road Wildlife Refuge. They have transient moorings for boats up to 60 feet. Call 401-423- DOCK (3625) for reservations. The sunrise on the east side of Jamestown is pretty spectacular, and this is especially true from JBY. The evening is equally impressive when the lights of the Newport Bridge and the city comes into view, announcing the start of their storied night life.

Now that we have gotten you moored, what are we going to do? There are a least three places to enjoy a cup of coffee and some pastry: East Ferry Deli, just across from Conanicut Marina, Slice of Heaven, located halfway up Narragansett Avenue across from the gas station, and the Village Hearth (out of town to the blinker, right one block). The latter has fresh bread daily, but get there before 11 or it’s all gone. Each provides their own environment and all are great! While there, search out a copy of the Jamestown Press and find out what’s going on. Notable events include the fireworks on or around the Fourth of July, and if you stay on the east side you can double dip on Newport’s fireworks, which are generally on a different night. If you visit later in the summer, the Fool’s Rules Regatta in the middle of August is a must! There is a bike race and a foot race at this time of year, so check the Press schedule for what you may want to do.

There are plenty of extraordinary things to do and places to go in Jamestown, not the least of which is Fort Wetherill. Built as the Dumpling Rock Battery in 1776 to protect the island from the British, it has undergone numerous renovations and name changes over the years, taking its current name in 1900. Located on the southeast side of the island, it’s a good venue for picnics and sunbathing. The rocks can get really hot and the spray coming off the waves in the afternoon after the southerly wind develops provides some natural air conditioning. The island’s other fort, located on the west side just south of Dutch Harbor, is Fort Getty. If you continue your walk down to the southern tip of the island, you’ll arrive at the Beavertail Lighthouse and Museum, You should time it so that you catch the sunset from the park - it’s the best on the island. The museum is open seven days a week from 10am to 4pm from June 15 through September 7; visit beavertaillight.org for more information.

Jamestown’s nightlife is as diverse as it is tasty. Restaurant menus run from the simple cheeseburgers and fish & chips at the Gansett to the upscale Northern Italian at Trattoria Simpatico. Chopmist Charlie’s has fresh fish everyday and a low-key environment with great service. Other good stops are Trish’s Tropi-Grille and the Oyster Bar. The Bay Voyage Hotel has the best martini on the island and has been voted the “Best Sunday Brunch” by Rhode Island Magazine on more than one occasion! The younger set (under 75) will love the live music at the Gansett on Friday and Saturday nights. If you’re single, ask Lynn, Denise or Delores to introduce you around… you’ll find a dance partner before the beer goggles take effect. They also have a jazz band on Sundays with their brunch, which has become very popular of late.

Day trips from Jamestown include a visit to Newport either by dinghy or on the local ferry out of Conanicut Marina. There are also multiple coves around the island where you can drop a hook and enjoy a nice lunch. The most popular would be to go south back down the main channel and follow the channel markers into Mackerel Cove. The holding is good and the swell isn’t bad as long as the wind is more west than south. Potter Cove, which is just north of the Newport Bridge, is another good spot to explore. The depth comes up fast here, so pick your spots carefully. Potter Cove is a favored place for the local yacht clubs to hold their junior sailing races, so you may find yourself sharing the water with some really talented eight- and nine-year-olds.

Racing around Jamestown doesn’t end with Optis. Being across from Newport, visitors get to view a variety of sailboat races during the season. From cruisers to America’s Cup yachts, racers dot the bay with their full sails and colorful spinnakers. This summer, the historic J Boats Shamrock, Endeavor and Ranger will return to Newport and grace the bay with their elegant presence. One can sit on a mooring on the east side of the island and be close enough to judge who is fouling whom as they approach a turning mark. Tuesday nights are especially exciting as the Jamestown Yacht Club holds its weekly beer can race. The prevailing wind usually has the windward mark just outside the Jamestown Boat Yard mooring field, and the finish is always at the town dock.

The best thing about Jamestown is that you can stay as long as you want without being hassled. There will be no throwing your lines off the dock or mooring if you decide to stay a bit longer than originally planned. There’s always room someplace for you to stay and the yards work with each other to do the best they can to accommodate your plans. With four boat yards on island, you can also have any repairs or service done during your visit. Trust me, you’ll enjoy it as much as the Native Americans did. ✦

Jamestown Summer Events

June

Ali Dunn Packer Memorial Road Race, 6 & 7
Central Baptist Church June Festival, 24
Island Treasure Garden Tour, 27
Quonset Point Air Show, 27 & 28

July

Fireworks at Mackerel Cove (check Jamestown Press for date)
Fourth of July Parade, 4
Summer Concert Series (Sundays from 7/5 to 8/16)
Jamestown Philomenian Library Book Sale, 9 - 24

August

Save the Bay Swim, 15
Fool’s Rules Regatta, 22
Conanicut Island Art Association Annual Art Exhibit, 20 – 24