WindCheck Magazine

Once upon a time a monstrous sheet of ice blanketed the Atlantic Northeast. From the cold Arctic Pole it spread over Canada, southward into Maine, spilling onto the land with an enormous weight, pushing the land beneath the sea. For eons, the wind rushed and the sea raged over this expanse of glacial mass, alternately freezing and melting with the cycles of nature until one day, the God of Time rose from a deep slumber, and with a mighty yawn stretched out his arms. Whereupon, the monstrous glacier retreated, leaving sleepy valleys and dramatic ridges as the land rose from the bowels of the sea, forming long arms of rocky ledges, cradling the two bays, giving sanctuary from the sea beyond.

Booth Bay and adjacent Linekin Bay are flanked on each side by long “fingers” of land stretching into the sea. Southport Island separates Booth Bay from the Sheepscot River while Linekin Neck provides the barrier to the Damariscotta. Marking the geographic boundaries for the Boothbay Region, each of these rivers offer a unique boating experience, making the region the perfect destination for a romantic weekend getaway, for families seeking a vacation adventure, or for yacht and boating clubs searching for a rendezvous or flotilla destination. Cruising to Boothbay by car or boat will be a vacation you’ll want to repeat again and again. This is the land of the unexpected…this is the “Soul of the Coast.”

For those wishing to escape the Southern New England noise – both visual and aural – Boothbay Harbor offers the perfect respite. Visitors will quickly discover that this is a place where America does not “run on Dunkin,” and you can have “it” your way...but “it” will not be found at a Burger King. For in Boothbay “it is still 1950 and Eisenhower is President...”

The Sheepscot River is easy navigation; the water is deep, the channel well marked, and there’s plenty to discover. Ebenecook Harbor offers several anchorages as well as slips and moorings. It is also the home of Boothbay Region Boatyard, a sophisticated yearround facility offering everything from simple repairs to comprehensive refits. Last summer I spent a couple of days sailing out of Mary’s Cove, exploring Ebenecook Harbor and venturing into the Sheepscot. Our goal was to sail down and have lunch dockside at Five Islands Lobster Company and Grill. However, the wind didn’t cooperate. At one point we found ourselves with oars in hand rowing the 16-foot Bulls Eye until, after about an hour, we were rewarded with a gentle gust. At that point we were just so happy to be sailing we spent the day gunkholing – weaving between the islands, taking pictures and absorbing the beauty.

Wiscasset, the “prettiest village in Maine,” is further up the river. If you get there, pick up a mooring and dinghy over to the town dock. I’ve never sailed there, but have driven through several times. It’s a nice stopping point – take a gander through the antique shops, enjoy the galleries, or simply have lunch on the docks. Red’s Eats is famous for their lobster rolls. You’ll recognize the place by the long line that stretches all the way down to the river. Never having developed patience for lines, I opt for Sprague’s – just across the street, which is absolutely wonderful since I can get lobster “my way” – on a New England hot dog bun piled high with fresh lobster in drawn butter (as opposed to mayo). I’ve not been to Sarah’s, but have met several people who say it’s very good.

Boothbay Harbor Then and Now

Established in the mid-1600s as a fishing camp, Boothbay did not become a town until 1730. Originally named Townsend after Viscount Townsend, the small settlement miraculously survived the predations of the French and Indian War and plundering British sailors during the American Revolution. In 1842, the town was renamed Boothbay and continued to grow as a fishing community. By the turn of 20th Century, the town had a fishery, fish oil company, ice company, two marine railways, a fertilizer manufacturing plant and a lobster cannery.

The late 1800s ushered in the era of vacation homes as families from Southern New England began to summer in the area. The Poole family operated a dairy and farmed on Damariscove Island, delivering fresh milk, luscious butter, fresh produce and eggs to Boothbay. Linekin Bay also flourished with summer homes. The Branch family acquired acreage on Linekin Bay and opened up a summer girls’ camp in 1909. During the years between the World Wars, the camp became co-ed and in 1946 evolved into Linekin Bay Resort – offering one of the best family vacation options in the Northeast.

Along with the lobster and fishing industry, the communities surrounding Boothbay Harbor thrived on the boating industry which continues as an important segment of the region’s history. Wotton’s Wharf, located on the west side of the harbor, offers easy access to boaters not wanting to navigate the busy east harbor. Recreational boaters will find all the conveniences of transient dockage and moorings, laundry and shower facilities as well as ample dockside power. Located at Townsend Gut, Boothbay Harbor Shipyard (formerly Samples) boasts a 700-ton railway that accommodates ships up to 200 feet. In operation since 1869, the shipyard has repaired historic ships such as New Bedford’s Ernestina and the H.M.S. Bounty as well as tall ships including Gazela of Philadelphia, Sherman Zwiker and Victory Chimes.

Just around Spruce Point lays the tranquil harbor of Linekin Bay. Linekin Neck protects the harbor on its east side and Linekin Bay Resort offers transient moorings as well as shower facilities and dining. Day passes can be purchased for access to their pool, tennis court and fleet of Rhodes 19s, kayaks and canoes. Linekin Bay is the perfect choice for boaters who want to be close to nature. The only night light you’ll get are the stars overhead and the music lulling you to sleep will be the sound of crickets and frogs as dusk turns to dark. Sailing the bay makes for a pleasant afternoon – around Cabbage Island, known for its authentic Downeast clambakes and weaving between the lobster buoys dotting the seascape.

At the head of Linekin Neck, up the Damariscotta River, you’ll come to the village of East Boothbay, home of world-class boatbuilders. Ocean Point Marina has a full service yard with laundry and shower facilities, ships store and fuel dock. At Lobsterman’s Wharf, next to the marina, you can get twin lobsters at an unbelievable price while sort of eavesdropping on the banter of the local boatbuilders.

For five generations, Hodgdon Yachts has been designing and building everything from 19th century schooners to 21st Century patrol craft. Continuing a family tradition of building top quality yachts, Timothy Hodgdon has transformed the company by adopting cold-molded construction methods and a commitment to cutting edge technology. Just next door is Washburn and Doughty, who began building fishing boats in 1977. Specializing in the construction of steel and aluminum commercial vessels, the company has prospered through diversity as a builder of tugboats, ferries, barges and research vessels. Additionally, there are several smaller yards scattered along the river. The river’s depth makes it a natural site for launching the Hodgdon yachts and huge tugs from Washburn & Doughty.

The Damariscotta is also a popular boating destination. More specifically, the destination is the Coveside Restaurant and Marina at Christmas Cove, where good food and entertaining stories are served up daily. Popular with visitors as well as locals, reservations for both restaurant and mooring are advised.

Local Attractions

The overwhelming attraction to visitors of the Boothbay Harbor region is the absolute natural beauty that manifests in all directions. From the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens to the local walking trails (pick up a map at one of the many brochure racks) and many charter opportunities, Boothbay presents the unique and extraordinary.

Boothbay is the land of lighthouses – active navigation aids for the region’s boaters. Burnt Island Light marks the entrance to Booth Bay, while Cuckholds Light stands off the ledge of Cape Newagen. Ram Island Light stands north of the Cuckholds and the Sheepscot lays claim to Hendricks Light. You’ll find three more lighthouses heading northeast into Muscongus Bay – Pemaquid Point, Franklin Island and Monhegan Island. Catch a tour boat in Boothbay Harbor to visit all these working lights.

There’s about a six-week window where visitors can catch a tour out to Eastern Egg Rock to observe the endangered puffins. The island is the southernmost point where the Atlantic puffin breeds and the only breeding ground in the U.S. Although you could sail out there, you won’t be able to make land, so the tours offer the best experience.

There are tour boats for just about any place you might want to visit or anything you might want to see – up the Kennebec, over to Monhegan Island, whale watching, harbor tours, sunset schooner tours, or you can venture out on your own in a 23-foot Hunter. The Maine Maritime Museum and Maine Aquarium present additional options.

Move over, NASCAR! Although lobstering is serious business here in Maine, those same lobstermen take their play equally serious. The annual Lobster Boat Races kick off the racing season in Boothbay Harbor – a real Downeast event with lobster boats screaming across the water at speeds that often break 60 mph. There are more than a trophy and winnings at stake here – there are bragging rights – and that’s priceless!

The town kicks off each summer season with their traditional Windjammer Days Celebration, a two-day festival packed with community events from a pancake breakfast to crafts fair, antique boat parade, shipyard tours, street parade, live music, and of course, a visiting fleet of historic windjammers. The festival is a real family event, offering a bit of this and that for everybody. The event is topped off with a spectacular fireworks extravaganza.

This year also marks the Second Annual Corinthians Stonington to Boothbay Harbor Race, a 332-nautical mile race from Stonington, CT to Boothbay Harbor, also known as The Lobster Run. Hosted by Stonington Harbor Yacht Club and Boothbay Harbor Yacht Club, this is the newest race on the Northeast coast, and according to Boothbay Harbor Yacht Club manager Jim Matel, the signature event, which starts on July 23, has close to 20 entrants this year. For more information, visit stoningtontoboothbayharbor.com.

It’s all here – just waiting for you to discover an extraordinary summer in the Boothbay Region where you can experience “the soul of the coast.”

Most boaters approach Boothbay Harbor from the south. Pass Squirrel Island on either side, but the most common route is west of the island to R “4” Fl R 2.5s. Leave some distance between you and the buoy as 10-foot shallows stretch between it and Squirrel Island. From R “4” Fl R 2.5s, head past Burnt Island Light (Fl R 6s 61 ft 12M HORN) toward R “8” Fl R 4s at Boothbay Harbor’s mouth. Keep west of this mark. Passing east of Tumbler Island is an invitation for disaster.

Approaching Boothbay from the east is a bit more complicated. Begin a RW “HL” Mo (A) BELL east of the Fisherman Island Passage and head through the passage (watch the lobster pots) to R N “6”. Once clear of the passage, steer for R N “6” west of Spruce Point, and then to R “8” Fl R 4s west of Tumbler Island.

Due north of Fl R 4s R “8” is the Boothbay Harbor anchorage. Extending south-southeast from Railway Point. Larger vessels can anchor north of Tumbler Island in 24 to 42 feet of water. Wakes and strong southerlies can make this area uncomfortable at times.

Alternately, from Fl R 4s “8” head northeast to reach most of the marinas. Southeast of G “9” 4s are Carousel Marina, a full service facility that can accommodate boats up to 180 feet, and Brown’s Wharf Marina. Most of the marinas will be found north of G “9” (Boothbay Harbor Marina, Tugboat Inn & Marina and Wotton’s Wharf). You can reach the Sheepscot River area through the narrow Townsend Gut (make sure you have a large scale chart before proceeding). Enter the gut at R N “2” west of Juniper Point and proceed north to R N “3” south of the swing bridge (vertical clearance: 10 feet at high tide when closed) Private docks and wharves line the gut so be courteous and watch your speed. At the northern end, the channel narrows between R N “6” and Fl G4s 24 ft M “7” at Cameron Point. Heed these aids as they mark ledges. Head south from Cameron Point to reach Ebenecook Harbor and the Sheepscot River, where you’ll find and extensive high-quality services at the Boothbay Region Boatyard.

Important Phone Numbers

Coast Guard: Boothbay Harbor 207-633-2661 or VHF 16
Boothbay Harbor Harbormaster: 207-633-5281
Tow Service Sea Tow: 800-4SEATOW or VHF 16
Sea Tow Midcoast Maine: 207-772-6724 or VHF 16
TowBoatU.S.: 800-391-4869 or VHF 16
TowBoatU.S. Maine: 207-460-5866 or VHF 16

Marinas

Carousel Marina: 207-633-2922 or VHF 9/8
Brown’s Wharf Marina: 800-334-8110 or VHF 9/68
Boothbay Harbor Marina: 207-633-6003 or VHF 9/68
Tugboat Inn Marina: 207-633-4434 or VHF 9/68
Boothbay Harbor Shipyard: 207-633-3171 or VHF16/9
Wotton’s Wharf: 207-633-7440 or VHF 9/69
Boothbay Harbor Yacht Club: 207-633-5750 or VHF 9
Boothbay Region Yacht Club: 207-633-2970
Paul E. Luke 207-633-4971
Ocean Point Marina 207-633-0773 or VHF 9

Feast Afloat…

In Boothbay, it’s all about the food…fresh lobstah, crab and those scrumptious wild Maine blueberries. Once the boat slips off the mooring, wind fills the sails and you’re on a steady course, the inevitable question becomes, “What’s to eat…or drink?” Which goes to show – it may be about the sailing, but the food certainly enters the equation. Whether you’re feasting on land or sea, Boothbay Harbor certainly offers choices. Just pick a direction and head into town where you will find a fine array of culinary delights.

Provisioning for a day sail or overnight offers several options. Tie up at the Rocktide and take their free trolley to Hannaford’s Market (don’t forget to tip the trolley driver!). You’ll be able to find most of the items you’ll need – paper goods, produce, coffee, condiments, etc. On the lighter side is the Village Market located in town. It’s a great spot to pick up those quick items – deli meats, salads, drinks, chips and such as well as a bottle of wine.

One of my favorite spots is Oak Street Provisioning – specializing in fresh fish and meats.

The extra bonus here is their wine selection – more than 350 labels from all over the world. Be sure to ask Doug or Elise about their selection of Maine wines. If you’re feasting on the boat, you’ll be pleased to pair the perfect wine with your entrée. You’ll also find cheeses, Maine maple syrup and an array of other specialty items. For a change of pace, try Winterport Winery’s delicious Berry Chocolate wine in lieu of a rich dessert – a luscious blend of blueberry, raspberry and chocolate…a real treat

…or on the Docks

Maine’s Boothbay region is a mecca for food lovers. Getting from one side of the harbor is easy – dinghy over to the restaurant’s dock or tie up at the town dock. The footbridge at the head of the bay makes getting from east to west shores a breeze. It’s good exercise and the footbridge also offers pleasant views of the bay on both sides.

For two weeks I grazed through an assortment of very good dining on the harbor – stuffed lobster at McSeagulls, a Texas - good rib eye at The Whales Tale, shrimp and scallop scampi at Amore’s and lobster stew with a grilled pannini at Jordan’s (followed by the absolute best strawberry shortcake you can imagine). The Boathouse Bistro Tapas Bar and Restaurant has both the most interesting menu as well as the best harbor view in town with their rooftop deck offering a bird’s eye view of the harbor.

The Ebb Tide is the closest thing to a diner you’ll find in Boothbay Harbor – the menu has variety, the food is good, and…this is the best place to come for blueberry pie or fresh peach shortcake. If you’re tired of breakfast on the boat, stroll over to Andrew’s Harborside Restaurant at the footbridge – they’re famous for their cinnamon buns

Robinson’s at Townsend Cut features a to-die-for lobster BLT club – and margaritas served up in pint jars! Over in East Bay, Lobsterman’s Wharf was serving up twin lobsters to some pretty happy guests. Just down the street, around the corner is the East Bay General Store – making the best gourmet sandwiches around.

Whether you’re serving up dinner on the boat or dining on the docks, however you choose to indulge your palate… bon appetit!